I chose the motel because it's close to the old part of Florence, which developed as a fishing town with a harbor on the Siuslaw River. (Just like Newport's on the... Umpqua?) The next morning I went down there, into a coffee shop, and sat at a big table cause all the small ones were taken. Pretty soon a guy sits down and we chat, and then another and another, and I realize I've sat at the “regular” table of a group of “regulars.” They were just a hoot – most of them retired military, so transplants to the town themselves. They could answer all my questions about where to go and what to do, though. I went up to Heceta Head and clambered up to the lighthouse. Took lots of pictures, as well as some of the beach. Headed back to the motel, relaxed for a while, then walked over the bridge over the Siuslaw hoping to see a good sunset, but it was a bit of a dud. Good walk, though. I also drove down south a few miles from there, to the Oregon Dunes. I got out of the car and looked at them but didn't find them interesting for some reason. Do I feel as though if you've seen one dune you've seen them all?
The next morning I drove to Mapleton, about 20 miles up the Siuslaw, where I was met by Lynn. She's a daughter of friends of my parents' whom I haven't seen for... 50 years. Yup. Of course we recognized each other right away because we both look like our mothers! She drove me back to her place, which is eight miles further, four of which are windy one-lane. She and her husband live in a big log house they built, on an island in the Siuslaw River. It's quite lovely – though unmercifully remote. There are several neighbors right there, though, so they're not the only people who want to live clear to hell and gone. They're trying to sell the place, though, and getting not much interest. We had a great little visit; her husband is terribly nice too. I had thought he was some kind of logger, probably because of where they live, but he's a retired CPA. Lynn showed me how to get to my next destination over some back roads, but getting to the freeway in time to get me to Rogue River before it got too late. The terrain was hilly, wooded, and fairly remote. I got to the freeway at a place called Oakland - and stopped to stretch my legs and get a latte. The barista directed me to a gallery around the corner where I went & chatted up the woman in the gallery. This was such an out of the way place I didn't understand how they stayed in business. I guess there are tour buses of retired people most times of the year. It's also in an area where they're trying to develop viniculture (sp?) which I think they hope will increase traffic.
I should say the weather had been excellent the whole way, and stayed that way for the whole trip. The weather reports talked about fronts moving in but they just skirted everywhere I went. No color on the trees yet; in fact, I noticed the alders are starting to turn here, just since I left, I think. Not that alders are very spectacular.
The drive to Grants Pass/Rogue River was mountainous all the way. I hadn't expected that. Typical of my non-planning approach to travel. Why on earth would I want to know what to expect? I got to my motel in Rogue River with only enough time to check in and turn around to go to Nancy's for dinner. This is a friend from the coast, who, with her husband, has landed there by a series of chance eventualities, and will stay for awhile. They're retired, and are about as nomadic as anyone I've ever met. We had a great visit. They're both lots of fun and interesting.
The motel I had found online turned out to be absolutely spectacular, in a very funky and idiosyncratic way. It's the Motel Del Rogue, Grants Pass, and I recommend it highly. It's right on the rogue river, and all the rooms have decks overlooking it. Lovely. The furnishings, except for the bed, were old, quasi antique. I loved the place. And the people who run it. I had a great chat with the owner. Here's an example of the idiosyncracy – if there's such a word. The microwave and frig were out on the deck. Neverthless I loved it. It's an older building, nice and stout, and you can't hear neighbors except on the decks.
A word now about getting online. I wasn't able to, at any point on the trip – so I drug my laptop along for nothing. I'm sure it's a problem with a setting on my computer – but I can't figure out why something changed. It worked the last time I took it out. Never mind. I'll get it figured out before I need to take it anywhere else.
The day after I got to Grants Pass I drove down to Jacksonville, at Nancy's recommendation. It's turn of the century buildings, all spiffed up, and was plenty busy for a September weekday. However, there was not one gallery of original local artists. I was told I'd have to go to Ashland for that. They'd had galleries come and go but there wasn't one at the moment. Also, the library, a big beautiful newish building, was CLOSED because a bond issue had failed. This was true for the whole county. I found that frightening. According to Kevin, the motel owner, the county council had just passed an emergency measure which would provide some operation funding.
So, when I checked out of the Motel del Rogue, I asked about art galleries in Grants Pass and Kevin told me about the old town area there and I went straight there. Ironically I liked the art gallery there, the Harper-Howell Gallery, better than any I'd seen in “artier” places.
And after waffling, I decided to go to Crater Lake as a side trip on the way home. Oh, I am so glad I did. I don't need to go into details cause you can see millions of pictures, but it was spectacular, to say the least. I was very aware of the elevation. It's at 7,000 above sea level on the west side, while the lake level is 6,000 feet. So you're looking down 1,000 feet to the lake. Wow. As I drove away I noticed another viewing area which was quite a bit lower. I shoulda stopped. It's one of the few regrets I have about the trip, but it's not a very big one. Mostly, the trip was terrific.
The other regret is that I didn't take a picture of Dennis' cherry tree. But I can get him to take one & send it to me.
I stayed in Albany that night, and got home the next day. Oddly, I didn't try to figure out the mileage of the trip, though I might do it sometime. I'm a bit stiff & sore from so much driving the last couple of days – but that will pass.
Now to study all my pictures and decide where to start in painting all the different kinds of places I saw!
PS: As an example of my lack of knowledge of Oregon, I thought, until this trip, that Bend was somewhere on I5. Imagine my surprise when I perused my map during my trip and found that it's way off to the east......... Too far east for this trip but I've heard it's crawling with retirees and tourists, and I prefer to find out of the way spots.
